Right now the wind at Nobbys is from the east at seventeen knots. At Norah Head the wind is coming from the north east at ten knots. I went for a surf at Frenchmans this morning. I got up a bit late and did not hit it until nine o’clock. The waves were about two foot and the wind was onshore just a little bit. It was a little choppy but not too much. I caught a few waves but they were a bit full. I had a good time and just an ace re-entry. I fell off quite a few times like a real goose.

It was interesting how the long boarders surfed in a separate area from the kids on the short boards. It seemed like some kind of bizarre apartheid, the separation of black and white people on the beach. Are long boarders an inferior race of people, a type of sub-human species with no rights and discrimated against? I only surf away from all the hassling grommets cause i cant stand hassling those little varmints. I like surfing to be relaxed and laid back. I do not want to fight anyone for a wave. Stuff them i say.

This entry was posted on Saturday, February 17th, 2007 at 2:07 am and is filed under adventure. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.